In Part 3 of our Japan in Focus series, we will explore materials in our open collections related to one of the most significant events in Japan: the Meiji Restoration 明治維新 (Meiji Ishin). Feel free to click on the images to enlarge them for a better view!
What caused the Meiji Restoration?
In 1853, Commodore Matthew Perry led a U.S. expedition to challenge Japan’s isolationist policies, arriving at Uraga 浦賀 harbor near Edo with a squadron of warships. Seeing Perry’s fleet, people in Japan at the time referred to them as the “black ships of evil mien.” Despite initial resistance, a treaty was signed in 1854 between the United States and Japan, opening two ports to foreign trade. This treaty led to a series of agreements allowing foreigners access to additional ports and cities, which significantly changed Japan’s economy with an influx of foreign currency.
As the Tokugawa shogunate struggled to manage these changes, discontent among samurai leaders grew. Their dissatisfaction with the shogunate’s response to foreign trade pressures contributed to the eventual downfall of the shogunate government. This marked the beginning of a new era in Japan, as a centralized government under the emperor emerged, symbolizing a significant shift in the country’s political landscape which led to the Meiji Restoration in 1868.
Yokohama
Japan-Yokohama in the early 1900s.
In 1854, US representatives led by Commodore Perry and Shogunate representatives led by Fukusai Hayashi 林復斎signed the twelve article US-Japan Treaty of Peace and Amity (also known as Treaty of Kanagawa) at the village of Yokohama. In our open collections, we had several maps that depict the rapid development of Yokohama. One of them is Zōho saikoku Gokaikō Yokohama no zenzu 増補再刻御開港横浜之全図 (Revised panorama of the open port of Yokohama):
Zōho saikoku Gokaikō Yokohama no zenzu 増補再刻御開港横浜之全図 (Revised panorama of the open port of Yokohama)
Published within a year of Yokohama’s opening to foreigners, this map is one of the largest composite woodcut prints ever issued in Japan and served as a valuable guide to the rapidly developing region.
On a closer look at this map, you will be able to see the Tokaidō 東海道 (Eastern sea route) at the bottom of the print, which was the busy highway between the imperial capital, Kyoto, and the political capital, Edo, running along the shoreline:
Yokohama rapidly expanded and transformed from a fishing village to a successful trading port, bringing with it growing influx of foreign visitors, merchants and traders. As shown in this print, trading vessels, ferries and fishing boats from various countries are anchored in the harbour of Yokohama and Edo Bay:
Another map that shows the urban development is Saikai Yokohama fūkei 再攺横濱風景 (Panoramic view of Yokohama, second revised). This rare and stunning set of six ukiyo-e woodblock prints captures the port of Yokohama in detail.
Saikai Yokohama fūkei 再攺横濱風景 (Panoramic view of Yokohama, second revised)
At a closer look, you can see that there are many details depicted in this print that reflect the westernization of Japan during Meiji Restoration. One example is people’s fashion style. It can be observed that people are wearing European fashion style walking, riding on horseback and in carriages through the neighbourhoods.
Fashion Trends
Speaking of fashion style, the Meiji era saw a dramatic change in clothing styles in Japan. According to POLA Research Institute for Cosmetic and Beauty, the Rokumeikan 鹿鳴館 (Banqueting House), which was a building in Tokyo commissioned for the housing of foreign guests, hosted many glamorous balls during that time period. Aristocrats, high ranking officials’ wives and young ladies all attended these events dressed in fashionable European style dresses.
In our open collections, we have quite a few items showing women’s fashion style during the Meiji era. Here is the Shōgaku shōka no ryakuzu; 小学唱歌之略図 (Singing Songs for Primary Education, an Informal Picture):
Shōgaku shōka no ryakuzu; 小学唱歌之略図 (Singing Songs for Primary Education, an Informal Picture)
As pointed out by Dr. Miriam Wattles from University of California, Santa Barbara in one of the articles she wrote for UBC Library’s Meiji at 150 Project, this triptych effectively illustrates the fashion style at the time. While men could exhibit their elegance in the style of black tailcoats and trousers, women were required to keep up with the latest trends, wearing westernized attire in various occasions. In January 1887, the same year this print was released, the empress even issued a proclamation urging women to adopt contemporary western styles.
Evolving Hairstyles
Another noteworthy feature is hairstyles. In 1885, a new hairstyle called “Sokuhatsu” 束髪 was introduced. This hairstyle was easier to manage than traditional Japanese styles as it was more lightweight without the need for extensive hair oil. According to the POLA Research Institute, the ukiyo-e print titled Dai Nippon Fujin Tsumagami Zukai 大日本婦人束髪図解 (Illustrated Guide to Women’s Tsumagami in Great Japan) was published to further promote various hairstyle different from the traditional ones:
Dai Nippon Fujin Tsumagami Zukai 大日本婦人束髪図解 (Illustrated Guide to Women’s Tsumagami in Great Japan)
As pointed out in the scroll at the top of the print, western hairstyles were recommended because they were considered as “hygienic, economical and convenient (衛生と経濟と便益)” (highlighted in red below):
According to Wattles (n.d.), the hairstyles are presented systematically in the print, from the back, profile, and three-quarter views. You may also notice that the hairstyles on the left were with bangs while those on the right do not have bangs. A young lady, dressed in a light lavender silk kimono adorned with scattered flowers and a richly patterned brocade obi, is having her hair styled by a kamiyui (髪結), a female hairdresser.
Another hairstyle variation was called “Hishashigami” 廂髪, which was characterized by bangs that extend outward like the eaves of a building. Interestingly, the Hishashigami hairstyle, with its elaborate and voluminous appearance, required similar maintenance to traditional Japanese hairstyles, which diverged from the principles of being “hygienic and economical.” Even though Hishashigami was criticized in magazines of the time as focusing more on aesthetics than practicality, it was still continued to be worn until the Taisho era.
Women in voluminous hairstyle, with babies and parasols
The Meiji Restoration marked a profound transformation in Japan, introducing significant shifts across various aspects of society. To explore more materials related to this time period, we invite you to check out our “Meiji at 150 Collection”.
Thank you for reading!
References:
Meijishowa. (n.d.). 170 Years Ago: 03-31 (1854) Treaty of Peace and Amity Signed Japan and the US sign the Treaty of Peace and Amity in Yokohama. https://www.meijishowa.com/calendar/1711/03-03-1854-treaty-of-peace-and-amity-signed.
MIT Visualizing Culture. (n.d.). Yokohama Boomtown Image Gallery / Y0044_YokohamaPort. https://visualizingcultures.mit.edu/yokohama/gallery/pages/Y0044_YokohamaPort.htm.
Philadelphia Museum of Art. (n.d.). Complete Picture of the Newly Opened Port of Yokohama. https://philamuseum.org/collection/object/254726.
POLA Research Institute of Beauty & Culture. (June 24, 2021). 明治時代初期、洋装のはじまり. https://www.cosmetic-culture.po-holdings.co.jp/culture/history/25.html.
POLA Research Institute of Beauty & Culture. (Aug 12, 2021). 明治時代の髪型１ 明治中期、新しい髪型「束髪」の登場.https://www.cosmetic-culture.po-holdings.co.jp/culture/history/26.html.
POLA Research Institute of Beauty & Culture. (October 14, 2021). 明治時代の髪型２ 前髪の変化、廂髪の登場と二百三高地髷. https://www.cosmetic-culture.po-holdings.co.jp/culture/history/027.html.
Samurai Archives. (n.d.). Commodore Matthew Perry. http://samurai-archives.com/wiki/Commodore_Matthew_Perry.
Wattles, M. (n.d.). Meiji Daughters: Their Stuff and Fancy in Brocade Pictures, 1870s-1880s. The Meiji at 150 Digital Teaching Resource. https://meijiat150dtr.arts.ubc.ca/essays/wattles/.
Weatherhead East Asian Institute of Columbia University Asia for Educators. (n.d.). Commodore Perry and Japan (1853-1854). https://afe.easia.columbia.edu/special/japan_1750_perry.htm.
Weatherhead East Asian Institute of Columbia University Asia for Educators. (n.d.). The Meiji Restoration and Modernization. https://afe.easia.columbia.edu/special/japan_1750_meiji.htm.
Weatherhead East Asian Institute of Columbia University Asia for Educators. (n.d.). Letters from U.S. President Millard Fillmore and U.S. navy commodore Matthew c. Perry to the emperor of Japan (1852-1853). https://afe.easia.columbia.edu/ps/japan/fillmore_perry_letters.pdf.
